Posts by Jess

Coffee and Olive Oil Truffles

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Coffee and Olive Oil Truffles

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Oh boy, these are dangerous. My mum’s friend recently provided me with a small, harmless and innocent looking bottle of ‘Coffee Extra Virgin Olive Oil’ (strange I know) with the challenge of making something with it!? On smelling it, my mind went to truffles. After a recent visit to William Curley’s chocolate sanctuary in Belgravia I felt inspired to use some of his sensational ingredient combinations. After trying his rosemary and olive oil chocolates I attempted my own version. With a packet of espresso flavoured Green & Blacks sitting on the shelf too, I thought this would add that extra kick of coffee flavour.

The oil in these, as opposed to the traditional cream, really does make  the truffles feel so much smoother without coating and cloying your mouth….they simply melt away.

Makes about 26

  • 80ml coffee olive oil OR plain Extra virgin olive oil
  • 100g Green & Blacks Espresso Chocolate, chopped
  • 125g Green & Blacks dark chocolate, chopped
  • 60g butter, cubed
  • Pinch salt
  • Cocoa for dusting/ chopped hazelnuts or mixed nuts/desiccated coconut
  1. Place the chopped chocolate, butter, oil and a pinch of salt into a heat proof bowl.
  2. Suspend over a pan of barely simmering water (do not let it touch) and heat gently until melted, stirring often.
  3. Once smooth and emulsified, pour into a clean bowl, cover and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight.
  4. Remove from the fridge. Use a spoon or a melon baller to mould out your truffles. Coat them in cocoa powder, chopped nuts or coconut or whatever else you like. Keep somewhere chilled but cover tightly if you are keeping them in the fridge as chocolate absorbs fridge smells….the last thing you want is a cheesy truffle?

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After Eight Macaroons

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After Eight Macaroons

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I don’t think I’ve ever met anyone who doesn’t like After Eights….or macaroons for that matter. These are, in my opinion, better than the real thing. The only unfortunate thing here is that they don’t come in those tiny little delicately folded envelopes…..oh and that you can’t play the ‘After Eight Game’! (If this is new to you check out this link. Hilarious game, especially after a few bevvies)

Makes about 12

Macaroons

  • 60g egg whites (about 2)
  • 40g caster sugar
  • 50g ground almonds
  • 110g icing sugar (minus 2 tbsp)
  • 12g Green & Blacks cocoa powder

Filing

  • 80g unsalted, softened butter
  • 100g sieved icing sugar
  • 1 tsp peppermint essence
  • Splash green food colouring
  1. Preheat the oven to 170°C and line a baking tray with parchment
  2. Blend the ground almonds, icing sugar and cocoa together in a food processor until fine and then sieve.
  3. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form, then add the caster sugar a spoon at a time until glossy stiff peaks form.
  4. Fold in 1/3 of the almond mixture to loosen it. Then fold in the rest, being gentle not to knock the air out.
  5. Spoon into a pipping bag with a round ended nozzle and pipe consistent circles of the macaroon mixture evenly. Give the tray a sharp slap on the surface a few times to level them and leave for 25 minutes, uncovered to form a skin before baking.
  6. Bake for about 12-15 minutes. They are ready when they come away easily from the tray. Leave to cool.
  7. Make the buttercream filling by combining the ingredients in a processor and then spooning into a smaller piping bag.
  8. When cool, pipe small amounts onto macaroon halves and sandwich together!

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Keralan Cod (Pollichathu)

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Keralan Cod (Pollichathu)

 

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This dish is cooked in a Keralan style called ‘Pollichathu’ where the fish (usually a traditional Karimeen) is wrapped in a banana leaf and cooked in a tasty marinade to keep it moist and succulent. However, I used foil for mine and cooked it under the grill but a BBQ would be a great alternative! Serve with some homemade warm chapattis and some nice cooling lime infused yoghurt!

Serves 4

  • ½ tsp fresh ground black pepper
  • ¼ tsp turmeric
  • ½ lemon juice
  • 4 cod fillets/seabass fillets
  • 1 coconut, flesh grated OR 2 large generous handful of desiccated coconut
  • 8 spring onions
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 5cm ginger root
  • 1 large green chilli
  • 1 large tbsp dried curry leaves (or a handful of fresh)
  • 1 tsp black mustard seeds
  • 1 dried red chilli, torn or 1 small tsp of dried chilli flakes
  • Small bunch of coriander

Chapattis

  • 280g wholemeal bread flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 200ml cold water
  1. Combine the black pepper, turmeric and lemon juice and marinade the fish for 1 hour in the fridge.
  2. Chop the spring onions, garlic ginger and green chilli and combine with the curry leaves.
  3. Heat a splash of oil in a frying pan and add the mustard seeds until they begin to crackle and then add the red chilli.
  4. Add the onion mixture and stir for a few minutes until beginning to brown but make sure it does not burn.
  5. Add the coconut and the coriander, saving a handful for garnish and season and set aside to cool slightly.
  6. Meanwhile, make the chapattis by placing flour and salt in a bowl and adding the water in a steady stream and mix with a wooden spoon. Knead briefly to obtain a sticky elastic dough and set aside in an oiled bowl to rest.
  7. Place the fish fillets in the middle of a piece of foil or a banana leaf and spoon over a ¼ of the coconut mixture. Wrap the foil up into a sealed parcel. Place on a hot BBQ or under a hot grill for about 8-10 minutes until cooked.
  8. While cooking, teach of golf ball sized pieces of chapattis dough and roll thinly. Either on the hot BBQ or in a hot dry frying pan, fry for a few minutes either side until charred and cooked. Wrap in a tea towel to keep warm and soft until ready to serve.
  9. Once the fish is cooked, serve along side the fish garnished with the reserved coriander and a spoonful of yoghurt seasoned with some lime zest and juice to taste for a nice cooling side.

Rhubarb and Amaretto ‘Cake’

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Rhubarb and Amaretto ‘Cake’

 

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The 1st August was ‘forage in the pantry’s’ 1st Birthday, hurrah! Some spritely rhubarb was nestled patiently outside in the garden so I stole it for this sweet celebration cake. However, cake, torte or tart- I don’t know? It has an impressively gooey and unthinkably moreish texture with a layer of juicy rhubarb and a sinful almond paste spooned slutily on top. But, regardless, its one of those recipes that surprises me with its flavour every time I make it (and equally makes me angry as I merrily start and  get everything ready only to get to the step that says ‘leave to dry overnight’ which I always seem to forget). It has a  very moist texture and, like I say, the recipe suggests leaving the rhubarb to drain overnight once cooked. I was too impatient and left it a hour or so which was effective but it was very gooey but still delicious. I thought however, that this recipe was finally worth sharing as it was first kindly shared with me a while ago.

  • 1kg rhubarb, chopped
  • 300g caster sugar
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 300g amaretti biscuits
  • 175g butter
  • 90ml Amaretto liqueur
  • 3 eggs
  • 40g plain flour
  • Icing sugar to serve
  • Mascarpone and ground cinnamon to serve
  1. Place the chopped rhubarb, 250g caster sugar, the cinnamon stick and a splash of water in a pan and simmer until tender but chunky. Drain the rhubarb in a sieve to dry out the mixture and set aside covered overnight. (Or for at least 1-2 hours if you can’t resist or want a moisture texture). You want a fairly dry soft rhubarb compote that won’t add to much moisture into the cake.
  2. Preheat the oven to 170°C and line a 23cm spring form tin.
  3. Place the amaretti biscuits in a food processor and blitz to fine crumbs. Add the diced butter, amaretto, eggs, the remaining sugar, and the flour. Blitz to combine to a blended paste and chill.image
  4. Spoon half the mixture into the lined tin, top with the rhubarb and then top with the remaining almond paste and smooth and level off.
  5. Bake for 30-50 minutes until golden and firm to touch. Depending on how wet the rhubarb was it may vary on the timing.
  6. Leave to cool before dusting with icing sugar. Serve with a generous spoonful of sweetened and cinnamon speckled mascarpone. (Keep in the fridge as it is very moist and will go off quickly- especially in this weather!)

Blackcurrant Bran Breakfast Muffin

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Blackcurrant Bran Breakfast Muffin

 

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I hate the way recipes for these types of muffins seem to stress them as being ‘healthy’ breakfast muffins- they’re not healthy (note the sugar and oil content) but they are great for breakfast once in a while! They’re fantastic devoured warm, fresh from the oven if you’re organised or satisfying a spontaneous lazy craving on a Sunday morning. Alternatively, leave to cool and then toast/grill and slather with trowel-fulls of creamy salted butter. Have I got your attention yet?

NOTE: The recipe was lovely but quite oily, next time I may reduce the oil content to about 200ml but if anyone does in the meantime, let me know how they taste!

Makes 18 man muffins

  • 100g bran
  • 300ml milk
  • 300g self raising flour
  • 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 3 eggs
  • 160g caster sugar
  • 85g muscovado sugar
  • 300ml sunflower oil
  • 200g blackcurrants (or blueberries)
  • 1-2 tbsp demerara sugar
  1. Preheat the oven to 170°C and line a muffin tray.
  2. Pour the milk over the bran and leave in a bowl to soak (when I first wrote that step, I wrote ‘brain’…..don’t do that).
  3. Whisk the eggs and sugar together in a large bowl and then incorporate the oil until combined.
  4. Into this, sieve the flour, bicarb and baking powder and fold in gently but don’t overmix. Leaving the odd lump of flour is fine. Lightly fold in the bran (I just wrote ‘brain’ again…) and milk mixture and lastly add the blackcurrants and mix until just combined.
  5. Spoon generously into the muffin cases, sprinkle each with a little demerara sugar and bake for 25 minutes until golden and cooked. Once cooked, leave to cool on a wire rack to firm up a little before serving warm with an optional scoop of cooling vanilla bean ice cream or a spicy cinnamon infused mascarpone cream dolloped on the side. These are also dreamy cooled and then toasted for breakfast and smothered in salted butter.

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An evening off duty and a Spanish Roast

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An evening off duty and a Spanish Roast

 

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Recently, I had the rare and deliciously appreciated privilege of being cooked dinner. With the responsibility of hosting and feeding guests stripped from my meddling hands, there was no way I could creep into the kitchen even for a quick stir of a bubbling pot. Instead, I was forced to sit back al fresco in the sun and enjoy a chilled glass of bubbly with some great appreciating company. And the food was quite simply delicious. I always love eating at other people houses as I get inspiration for flavours and ideas to try myself. A feast of grilled and sweetly glazed Spanish chorizo was first to grace the table followed by 2 lovingly handmade loaves of fluffy focaccia and an olive laced ciabatta with a glistening pool of olive oil for dipping. With enough chicken, BBQ ribs and salad to feed us hungry guests, we devoured it with pleasure! Thanks Chef Tipping!

Inspired by that dangerously moreish chorizo I was eager to try it. Come Sunday, a Spanish- style roast chicken feast was on the cards. Roasted chicken with gremolata, glazed chorizo, and some spicy roasted potatoes went down a treat in the balmy weather. Hands down my favourite gem of a recipe was Jeff’s grilled chorizo so this one comes courtesy of him!

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Serves 4

Gremolata

  • 1 roasted chicken
  • Handful of flat-leaf parsley
  • ½ garlic clove
  • Zest of 1 small lemon
  1. For the gremolata, chop the garlic finely and grate over the lemon zest. Chop the parsley finely too and then add together with the garlic and lemon and chop together to combine.
  2. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and then use to scatter over your freshly roasted, succulent chicken.

Potatoes

  • 500g potatoes
  • 1-2 tbsp tomato puree
  • ½ tsp smoked paprika
  • Olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, skinned and crushed
  • ½ lemon, juice
  • Handful parsley
  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C . Mix the tomato puree, paprika, seasoning and about 1-2 tbsp of olive oil in a bowl.
  2. Cut the potatoes into small chunks about 2-3cm in size and cover with the dressing.
  3. Place in a lined roasting tray with the garlic and roast for 40 minutes until soft, a little crisp and cooked, turning every now and then
  4. When ready to serve, squeeze over the lemon and scatter with the parsley

Chorizo

  • 1 wheel or a few sausages of raw cooking chorizo (I used the ‘Unearthed’ range. The better quality the better it will taste. I stress that this should be ‘cooking’ chorizo that is raw and not the cured kind)
  • 1-2 tbsp Membrillo quince paste
  1. Place the chorizo on a lined baking tray
  2. Grill for about 8-10 minutes until cooked and golden brown or bake.
  3. Give the quince paste a mix to loosen it and spread evenly over the grilled chorizo. Grill again for a few more minutes until the paste has ‘melted’ over the chorizo and formed a delicious crust. Add more if you like.
  4. Slice into chunks and enjoy with your roast.

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Caribbean Rice Salad

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Caribbean Rice Salad

Today is ‘forage in the pantry’s’ 1st Birthday! It been a delicious year of cooking and blogging. Looking back on my first entry, ’The Best…Peanut Butter Cookies’, I feel compelled to make something peanut infused! However, with all this fantastic hot weather we’ve been enjoying and with today being yet another scorcher, the cleansing flavours of the Caribbean seem appropriate. Cold rice salads are totally underrated as rice is normally associated with curries and hot meals. This delicious one comes courtesy of Ottolenghi- the salad king. I always eat brown wild rice or Camargue as its healthier and full of flavour and adds a welcome component to a meal. This salad definitely needs the Camargue rice as it adds colour and an amazing nutty flavour. Even cooking it infuses the kitchen with its tasty aroma. Don’t use white rice here as it just won’t work….on any level.

While this is devoured, its time to crack on with a proper birthday cake…..

Serves 4-5 easily (Adapted from Ottolenghi’s Plenty)

  • 150g Camargue rice
  • 100g wild brown rice
  • Bunch of basil, shredded
  • Bunch of mint leaves, shredded
  • Bunch of coriander, shredded
  • 1 red pepper, sliced thinly
  • 2 spring onions, sliced
  • 1 fresh red chilli, chopped (seeds and all if you like it hot)
  • Zest and juice of 1 lemon
  • Juice ½ lime
  • 1 mango, cubed into 2cm dice
  • 60g roasted salted peanuts
  • 50g desiccated coconut
  • Salt
  • 1-2 tbsp oil
  1. Boil the rice for about 20 minutes until cooked. Drain and spread out onto a large plate to cool.
  2. Mix all the other ingredients in a large bowl apart from the lemon and lime juice and the oil.
  3. When the rice is cool, add to the other ingredients and gently toss together until combined. Squeeze over the lemon and lime juice and add enough oil to moisten the salad to your liking- I only added about 1 tbsp but add more if you like.

Note: This would be lovely with my Asian Salmon recipe!

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Deep Fried Whitebait

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Deep Fried Whitebait

 

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Whitebait are delicious when deep-fried. They are a really fishy fish if you know what I mean but perfect as tasty canapes especially with some bubbly to celebrate an occasion….and this one- my recent graduation! On a recent trip to France my dad bought back some sparkling ‘Saumer’ which is a lovely alternative to Champagne. Its a really fresh, dry, Chenin Blanc based sparkling wine and, like most dry sparkling wines…goes deliciously well with fried, greasy finger food! After devouring one batch and one bottle we came to our senses and moved onto the real deal and another helping…

Serves 4 as a starter

  • 50g plain flour
  • 1 egg
  • 200g whitebait
  • Salt
  • 100ml sparkling water
  • Sunflower oil for frying
  • Mayonnaise
  • 1 lime
  1. Whisk the egg, flour and salt together in a bowl and whisk in the sparking water until you have a smooth batter.
  2. Heat half a pan of sunflower oil (or a deep fat fryer if you have live an extravagant life) to about 180 or until a piece of bread, turns golden brown and sizzles within a few minutes.
  3. Dip the whitebait into the batter, a handful at a time and fry in the hot oil for 2-3 minutes until golden brown. Drain into a kitchen roll lined bowl and sprinkle with salt. Keep warm while you finish the rest
  4. Mix a small cup of mayonnaise with enjoy lime/lemon juice to taste and serve with the whitebait.

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WINE: The only thing I can even bear to consider drinking with these fried and greasy is fishy delights is something sparkling. Anything of good quality you have to hand. Try a lovely Saumer or a classic Champagne. One of my personal favourites being Gimonnnet. Champagne Cuis 1er Cru Brut NV available at Armit Wines.

Jess - Gimonnet

Barbie’s Risotto

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Barbie’s Risotto

 

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(Beetroot, hazelnut, goats cheese risotto)

This one is for my best bud (who ironically wasn’t there to enjoy it…? Sorry Katy) as she once ordered it at a restaurant just because it was pink! It makes a lovely vegetarian mid-week meal which I even got a man- yes a man- to eat. Now while most 21st century guys under the age of about 35 are willing to try news flavours and recipes, many, like my pa, are set in their foodie ways and require meat and potatoes somewhere on the dinner plate. But, if I can make my dad eat this princess pink, meat free dish then its certainly do-able. Admittedly, he did grow the beetroot and I am inclined to say that he will in fact eat anything that he has produced from his allotment. As a side note- I mean anything. I was told (burdened) this evening with the news that he had some turnips that he’d grown that are (I quote) ‘Great! They taste like melon!’…..interesting.

Anyway, enjoy the risotto!

Serves 4

  • 250g risotto rice
  • 1 onion
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 1 small glass dry white wine
  • 1 litre hot vegetable stock
  • 50g butter
  • Large handful grated parmesan
  • 300g beetroot
  • ½ lemon, juice
  • To serve- Handful podded broad beans, handful hazelnuts, crumbled goats cheese
  1. If using raw beetroot, first boil for about 40 minutes or until soft, leave to cool and then peel. Reserve a chunk and cut into dice and set aside. Place the remaining beetroot in a food processor and puree until smooth-ish adding a few generous splashes of hot stock to loosen. Set aside until needed.
  2. Toast the hazelnuts in a hot oven for about 5-8 minutes and then coarsely chop. Fry in a little oil in a hot frying pan until golden and then set aside to use for garnish.
  3. Melt half the butter with a splash of oil in a large pan and gently fry the onion until soft. Add the garlic and fry for a further few minutes.
  4. Add the rice and fry over a medium-high heat until it starts to turn translucent. When too hot to touch, add the wine and simmer until absorbed.
  5. Turn the heat down to a medium-low and add the hot stock ladle by ladle as it becomes absorbed, stirring all the time keeping the mix on a very gentle simmer. Keep adding stock for about 15-18 minutes until the rice is cooked but with some bite.
  6. When loose in texture and the rice is cooked, stir in the beetroot puree and the beetroot dice. Season to taste, you’ll probably find it needs a generous seasoning of salt.
  7. Add more stock to loosen if necessary and then remove from the heat. Add the remaining butter, the grated parmesan and half the lemon juice, cover with a lid and place the risotto to one side to rest.
  8. When ready to serve, firmly beat the melted butter and cheese into the risotto and season to taste. It should be oozy and runny, not stodgy. Serve spooned into warmed shallow soup bowls, scattered with the broad beans, hazelnuts and a crumbling or  quenelle of goats cheese!

NOTE: See here for my risotto tips

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Banana and Brown Sugar Ice Cream

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Banana and Brown Sugar Ice Cream

 

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While banana bread or my banana muffins (see here) are my go-to for any over-ripe, senescent bananas aging ungracefully in the fruit bowl, this is another alternative idea for their use. Additionally, I always freeze any really ripe bananas that won’t get eaten in time so if, like me, your freezer is also always stacked with frozen bananas then they can be used here too! This is another David Lebovitz recipe as he really is the king of the perfect scoop! I’ve just made a basic banana recipe here but next time (and there will be a next time as its so good) I think I’ll try adding some extra flavours which are endless here. See NOTE below for details or ideas but if you’re a banoffee pie fan then this base recipe would be a great start.

  • 600g very ripe bananas (fresh or frozen)
  • 135g light brown soft sugar (or dark brown for a deeper flavour)
  • 500ml coconut milk
  • 1 tsp dark rum
  • Pinch salt
  • ½ tsp vanilla
  1. Heat the brown sugar with about ¼ of the coconut milk in a pan until smooth and simmering. If using fresh bananas, cut into small-ish chunks and add to the mixture with a pinch of salt. If using frozen, allow to thaw slightly until soft but not sloppy and crumble or chop in.
  2. Stir and cook to soften the bananas for a few minutes
  3. Add the rum and vanilla and then puree the mixture in a processor until smooth. Chill
  4. Churn in an ice cream maker for about 30 minutes until set

NOTE: This recipe would be great with anything added too. The options are endless but a few ideas include:

  • Grated coconut
  • Rum soaked raisins
  • Swirl in a few tablespoons of peanut butter
  • Any form of toasted nuts e.g. brazils, hazelnuts, walnuts
  • A swirl of toffee sauce and some crushed biscuits for an authentic ‘banoffee’ pie ice cream

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