Posts by Jess

Saffron Risotto, Sea Bass, Parsley Oil

July 23, 2013 Comments Off read Seafood

This really hit the spot after a long weekend and an enjoyable fortnight of barbequed meat and salads. Risotto is my favourite way to relax in the evening especially with a glass in hand. As a risotto lover, this is definitely up there in my top 5.

Serves 2

2 generous handfuls of Arborio risotto rice (about 200-250g)
1 shallot or 1 small onion, chopped finely
½ garlic clove, chopped finely
1 small glass of dry white wine
Large pinch of saffron strands
750-1litre hot light vegetable stock
50g unsalted butter
4 large tbsp of finely grated parmesan
2 sea bass fillets
4 thin slices of chorizo
Small bunch parsley
80ml olive oil

Begin with the parsley oil. Bring a pan of water to the boil and have a bowl of iced water ready at the same time. Blanch the parsley in the boiling water for no more than 15 secs. Quickly drain and place into the iced water. Ring out any excess water and pat the leaves dry.
Heat the 80ml of olive oil in a pan until blood temperature and add the parsley. Place all in a food processor with a pinch of salt and blend until you have a lovely green oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning and place in a small jug and leave to cool to room temperature.
Start the risotto (see here for my tips). Melt about 30g of the butter and a drizzle of oil in a pan and fry the onion gently for about 10 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and fry for a few more minutes.
Keep your stock in a saucepan close by on a low heat and whisk in the saffron.
Add the rice to the onion and garlic and fry over a medium-high heat until beginning to turn translucent. When too hot to touch, add the wine and simmer until absorbed.
Turn the heat down to a medium-low and add the hot stock ladle by ladle as it becomes absorbed, stirring all the time keeping the mix on a very gentle simmer. Keep adding stock for about 15-18 minutes until the rice is cooked but with some bite (you probably won’t need it all). Season to taste.
When loose in texture and the rice is cooked, add the remaining butter, the grated parmesan and a squeeze of lemon, cover with a lid and take off the heat and place the risotto to one side to rest.
Heat a frying pan to a highish heat and season your sea bass fillets, cutting them into smaller pieces if you like. Fry for about 3 minutes, skin side down until crisp and finish cooking for up to 1 minute on the other side until cooked. Fry the chorizo slices in the remaining oil until crisp.
Stir the melted cheese and butter into the risotto- the texture should be creamy and ‘oozy’ and NOT stodgy. It should require serving in a bowl not on a plate. Taste and adjust the seasoning before dividing into two warm bowls.
Top with the sea bass fillets and the chorizo slices and drizzle with the vibrant parsley oil! Enjoy with a crisp glass of Muscadet.

Smashed Minty Peas

July 23, 2013 Comments Off read Vegetables and Salads

This recipe is adapted from a Jamie Oliver recipe from the ‘Jamie at Home’ book. I have many MANY (too many I’m told….?) cook books but there are always those loyal few which I always resort to for some great recipes. This book is certainly one of them and I recommend it (it’s particularly good if you have an allotment as the recipes are seasonal and divided by ingredient). We currently have more peas than can be physically and sanely podded so this seemed like a tasty use for them. With a less bountiful broad bean supply, I adapted the recipe slightly but the end result is a fresh, sweet, minty pea mash. Jamie recommends beautiful buffalo mozzarella but it works equally well with halloumi or feta

350g fresh raw peas, podded
100g podded broad beans, blanched and taken out their skins
60g Parmesan
1 lemon, juice
Large bunch of mint
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Sour dough bread slices to serve
1 garlic clove

Use a pestle and mortar to bash the mint leaves with a large pinch of salt and a small handful of peas to release the flavours. (You can make the entire thing in a pestle and mortar but I found it easier in the processer. However, the best way to get the flavour from the mint is by bashing so do this first).
Add the bashed minty peas along with the rest of the peas (save a handful to add whole at the end) into the processor and pulse to roughly chop into a chunky paste. Add the broad beans and pulse again.
Add about 1-2 tbsp of oil to achieve a thick paste and then add the lemon juice. Season and then stir in the parmesan cheese and the reserved whole peas.
Taste and adjust to your liking with more lemon or cheese or add more oil if it is too thick.
Peel and half the garlic clove horizontally and use it to rub your hot toasted bread as soon as it comes out of the toaster or grill to add a subtle garlic flavour. Drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil and spoon on your pea ‘mash’. Enjoy with crumbled feta, fried halloumi or creamy buffalo mozzarella!

Caramelised White Chocolate and Rose Cupcakes

July 15, 2013 Comments Off read Sweet Treats

I imagine when you arrive at the Pearly Gates of heaven, St.Peter’s hunky Leonardo look-a-like assistant will be standing beside him with a tray of these welcoming you in. That would be nice.

So, this is not another generic chocolate cupcake…..oh no, that’s not my style. I had to play with my Green & Blacks stash somehow. Caramelised white chocolate is courtesy of David Lebovitz who has an ice cream recipe for this I’ve been meaning to try…I usually find white chocolate too sweet and the idea of the ice cream was enough to make my poor teeth ache so I thought I’d try (ok still sugary) but a less intense cupcake by sticking it into a cake mixture. The results were engulfed on a sunny early evening within the hour…success.

Cupcakes

150g plain flour
1tsp baking powder
110g butter, melted
100g sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
160g caramelised white chocolate (or simply use melted white chocolate 30% solids minimum- I used Green & Blacks)
60ml milk

White Chocolate and Rose Buttercream

250g icing sugar
110g unsalted butter
150g Green & Blacks white chocolate, melted
Drop of rosewater (Or to taste- its powerful stuff)
Drop of pink/red food colouring

1. Preheat the oven to 125°C. Start by making the caramelised white chocolate. Break the chocolate up into pieces and place on a lined baking tray. Place int he oven for 10 minutes and then spread out using a spatula. Place back in the oven for another ten minutes and repeat this process of smoothing it out every 10 minutes for up to 60 minutes but this will depend on the chocolate you use (DON’T use cheap stuff). It will look really weird and chalky but don’t panic….it should smooth out as you go. Tips can be found here from the man himself. If it doesn’t (like mine did) then after the hour, place in a food processor and whiz briefly and it will form a devine golden brown caramel ready to use in your cupcake mixture.

2. Now start the cupcakes by whisking the eggs and the sugar for a few minutes until really pale and fluffy and airy. Add the vanilla and then the milk followed by the white chocolate caramel mixture and mix well (If using normal chocolate, melt it in advance by heating the milk and then whisking in the chocolate and combine this way).

3. Sieve over the baking powder and the flour and fold in gently.

4. Finally, fold in the melted butter (it will look nasty at first but persist).

5. Spoon into cases and bake at 180°C for about 20 minutes before leaving to cool.

6. For the icing, combine the softened butter, sieved icing sugar and rose water together in a processor or by hand until well combined. Combine with the melted white chocolate until smooth adding a drop of pink colouring if you like. Add a splash of milk for a looser consistency. Spoon into a piping bag.

7. When the cakes are cold, pipe the icing on top in a rose pattern and scatter with dried rose petals if you like!

8. Your final mission…..make a man eat one!

Peach and Lavender Crumble Ice Cream

July 13, 2013 Comments Off read Sweet Treats

(Roskilly’s ‘After eight mint choc-chip’ ice cream and an apple crumble and ginger milkshake)

This sunny glorious week my sister and I were wise enough to have booked a little trip to Sennen Cove, our usual home away from home down at Lands End for some surf and beach time. On the only one drizzly morning we made our long awaited pilgrimage to the Roskilly’s Farm where they make, hands down, the best ice cream and as an ice cream enthusiast I thought it only fitting. Even the calves looked content and happy- surely because they know that their Jersey milk is being put to delicious use! Each flavour tastes exactly as it should…from Rhubarb to Apple Crumble, Ginger Fairings to Malty Mystery and Salted Caramel or, my ultimate favoruite, toffee and hazelnut which, quite frankly, tastes like a chilled mouthful of Ferrero Rocher! The choices are endless so naturally we had to have a milkshake and a tub for…..ermm….lunch?

(Some happy Jersey calves)

Although my freezer is full of homemade ice cream experiments and flavours, after visiting this little haven I had to try some more. It’s only polite. And the weather seems to be sticking around too…

Peach and Lavender Ice Cream

400ml whole mlik
300ml double cream
125g caster sugar
1 vanilla pod, seeds scraped
6 egg yolks
6 large ripe peaches (or 1 can/400g ish of peach halves- this will give you a more peachy flavour)
1 heaped tsp lavender (optional)
1-2 tbsp honey
Handful of cooked crumble mixture

If using fresh peaches, preheat the oven to 200°C . Half and core the peaches and drizzle with about 1-2 tbsp honey. Sprinkle with the lavender and roast in the oven for about 30 minutes until soft. Leave to cool. Remove the skins if you like (I didn’t).
Now start the custard base. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a large bowl with a tea towel beneath it.
Heat the milk, cream, and the vanilla seeds (and pod) on a low heat until just below boiling. Remove the pod and discard
At this point, whisk the yolks continually and pour over the hot creamy milk in a steady stream to prevent it scrabbling. When all is added return the mixture to the pan and on a VERY low heat, stir the custard until it begins to thicken and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Keep the heat low to prevent it from scrabbling.
Once thick enough, pour into a large bowl and place this bowl on ice to cool. Puree or roughly mash (for the desired texture) the cooled peaches in a processor or do the same with the canned peach halves, leaving some chunky pieces for texture. Stir through the custard and leave to cool.
Once cooled, churn in an ice cream maker until set. Towards the end, add all but a handful of crumble mixture.
Pour into a container, top with the leftover crumble and freeze.

Note: For a softer texture, add a splash of peach liqueur perhaps…?

Saffron, Fig and Chicken Tagine

July 12, 2013 Comments Off read Poultry

This recipe is one from the archive. My mum and I always collect recipes we want to cook or for inspiration when seen in magazines and newspapers and this one has been patiently and modestly waiting since…wait for it…1999 from a senescent copy of ‘Good Housekeeping’ magazine. But, sometimes the old ones are the best. With a few tweaks here and there to suit our tastes, it was a crowd pleaser!

Serves 4

8 free range chicken thighs
2 onions
3cm piece ginger, chopped/grated
1 heaped tsp coriander seeds
Large pinch saffron strands
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 cinnamon stick
200g dried figs
200g cous cous
1 heaped tsp hot harissa paste or 1 hot red chilli, chopped finely
50g toasted flaked almonds
50g raisins
Bunch parsley, chopped
Bunch fresh mint, chopped

Preheat the oven to 190°C.
Heat a splash of oil in a heavy based casserole dish. Cut the onions into quarters, leaving the root in tack so that the chunks stay nicely together (optional) and fry gently for 10 minutes of so until soft and golden.
Add the grated ginger and cook for 1-2 minutes.
Add the coriander seeds, saffron, turmeric and the cinnamon stick and stir to combine. Cook for 1-2 minutes and then scatter in the figs. Set aside.
Heat a frying pan until really hot. Season the chicken thighs and fry, skin side down, for about 10 minutes over a high heat to brown the chicken and crisp up the skin.
Place the chicken thighs on top of the onions and figs in a single layer. Pour 500ml of boiling water around the chicken (preferably not over it), cover with a lid and cook for 45 minutes or until the chicken is tender.
About 5 minutes before it is ready, place a serving dish in the oven to heat up. When ready, remove the chicken, figs and onion to the dish and keep warm in the oven. A good idea is to stick on the grill to crisp up the chicken skin but keep and eye on it if you do.
You should have at least 300ml of the juices left in the dish for the cous cous but top up with boiling water if not. Bring to the boil on the hob and add the harissa or chilli. Remove from the heat and add the cous cous, raisins, almonds, all bar a pinch of the herbs and cover with a lid and leave to absorb for a few minutes.
When ready to serve, stir the cous cous and pile it high onto your serving platter. Top with the reserved chicken and figs and any juices and scatter with the herbs!
Enjoy with a nice, simply dressed lemony green salad.

Dark and Stormy Cupcakes

July 9, 2013 Comments Off read Sweet Treats

Cupcake versions of cocktails are always a crowd pleaser that receive oooo’s and ahhhh’s from those greedy alcoholic denying guests we all have. A Green & Blacks ginger bar packs a strong ginger punch so works perfectly. A modest bottle of honey rum (from an adventure abroad- use dark rum if not) has been tentatively perched on the pantry shelf awaiting its calling and was eying up the ginger like a beautiful model in a bar, so was ready to be called into action as well. Lime frosting for a final characteristic flavour with the chocolate addition makes me wonder why the famous cocktail- ‘Dark and Stormy’ doesn’t contain chocolate already…..happy eating….it will be!

Cupcakes (Makes 12)

100g Green & Blacks Ginger Chocolate
115g unsalted butter
115g caster sugar
2 eggs
2 tbsp ground almonds
150g self raising flour
1 tbsp Green & Blacks cocoa powder
2 tbsp golden (honey) rum
Pinch ground ginger

Icing

200g cream cheese/mascarpone
60g sieved icing sugar
2 limes, zest
Juice ½ lime

Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a muffin or cupcake tray with cases.
Melt the chocolate in a glass bowl over a pan of simmering water (make sure it does not touch the water) and melt slowly then set aside to cool a little.
Cream the butter and caster sugar in a large bowl then beat in the eggs one by one.
Add the ground almonds and then sieve in the flour, cocoa and a pinch of ginger and fold in. Add the rum and melted chocolate and mix until combined.
Spoon the mixture into the cases and bake for about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix the icing ingredients and spoon into a piping bag and chill in the fridge until needed.
When the cupcakes are cooked and cool, ice with the lime icing and add a grating of lime zest if you like! Serve…..perhaps with a ‘Dark and Stormy’ if you’re still feeling the need!

Thai Crispy Salmon

July 7, 2013 Comments Off read Seafood

This is a great way to serve salmon in the summer- wrapped in a crispy shield of filo pastry but juicy and pink inside. I’ve used a Thai style salsa inside but really it can take anything….chilli jam works well or even a spoonful of pesto. Served with some boiled Jersey Royals covered in a insulating blanket of melted butter; a scattering of diced sweet shallot; some feather like ribbons of chopped garden mint and a sprinkle of garlicky chives from the garden…summer!

Thai salmon (Serves 2, adapted from Delia Smith)

1 tsp grated fresh ginger
Small handful of chopped coriander
1-2 spring onions, chopped
1 lime, zest and juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 salmon fillets
2-4 sheets filo pastry
25g butter, melted
1 tbsp sesame seeds

Preheat the oven to 190°C.
Mix the ginger, coriander, spring onions, garlic and lime together in a bowl.
Lay one or two sheets of filo pastry (depending on the size of your salmon. If they are large then 2 may be a better option) on the work top and brush with melted butter. Place one salmon fillet at one edge of the pastry and top with half the Thai mixture. Roll up like a present and tuck the ends underneath. Brush generously with melted butter and scatter with sesame seeds. Place on a baking tray and repeat with the other salmon fillet.
Bake for 15- 20 minutes until the pastry is golden and crisp. Serve!

Moroccan Lamb

July 3, 2013 Comments Off read Meat

This is a knock out way to cook a leg of lamb. If you buy a good quality piece from a good butchers it will so tender and cut like butter every time. Served with some beautiful jeweled cous cous scattered with pomegranate seeds and toasted almonds, a fresh green avocado salad dressed with lemon and olive oil and some oiled and grilled pitta breads dusted in spicy sumac, it really is a fantastic exchange for a Sunday roast in the summer when the weather lets you down. However, preferably if the sun is out, this lamb is amazing on the BBQ where it gets that priceless charred outside!

Moroccan Lamb (Serves 8)

(2kg) Leg of lamb, boned and butterflied
2 lemons, juice
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Bunch of coriander, chopped
1 red chilli, chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
2-3 tbsp Ras El Hanout

Mix the marinade ingredients together in a large bowl adding Ras El Hanout to taste (the strength will depend on the brand you buy so add as much as you like). Massage the marinade into the butterflied lamb and then place into a large dish in the fridge overnight to tenderise.
When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 180°C . Place the lamb in a baking tray or grill rack over a tray and cook for 45 minutes (medium) or 1 hour (well done). Leave to rest for at LEAST 20 minutes wrapped tightly in foil so that you can collect all the lovely juices and use them for pouring over the carved meat.
Once rested, carve into thick slices and serve with the juices. I also made a minted oil as a nice dressing by blitzing a bunch of mint leaves with some olive oil and seasoning in a processor.

Jeweled Bulgar Wheat Salad (Serves 4)

120g bulgar wheat
1 litre light vegetable stock
1 pomegranate, seeds removed
50g pistachios/flaked almonds
Bunch spring onions, chopped
1 cucumber, diced
Small handful of chopped dried apricots
Large handful each of coriander, flat-leaf parsley, mint (and/or any other herbs you like)
1 lime, zest and juice
1 large or 2 small onions
1 tsp ground cumin/ras el hanout
1 tbsp olive oil

Simmer the bulgar wheat in the stock for about 10 minutes or so to loose its crunch. Drain and set aside to cool.
In a dry frying pan or warm oven, toast the pistachios or flaked almonds for a few minutes. If using pistachios, chop roughly keeping fairly coarse.
Cut the onion into half moons and fry in a little oil over a medium heat until softened and golden brown coloured and beginning to crisp. Season with salt, stir in the ground cumin/ras el hanout and remove from the heat. Stir into the wheat along with the lime zest and juice and season.
Add the diced cucumber, spring onions and chopped apricots to the cooled bulgar wheat along with the chopped herbs (make sure the herbs are added when wheat has cooled to prevent them turning black). Add the nuts and pomegranate seeds but save a handful to scatter over the top for garnish.

This recipe could also be done with couscous and using any herbs, nuts or dried fruits etc that complement your other dishes! Serve with some grilled pitta breads if you like (recipe here)

Rhubarb Bakewell Tart

June 26, 2013 Comments Off read Sweet Treats

With a bunch of prematurely picked rhubarb from the allotment aging ungracefully in the fridge this week I decided to experiment and make an ever favourite classic- the bakewell tart- with a rhubarb ‘jam’ instead of your traditional cherry or raspberry. Devine…

Note: For a more subtle flavour if you’re not an almond addict, feel free to leave out the extract.

Serves 8 (generously)

Pastry

175g plain flour
75g chilled unsalted butter
Cold water

Rhubarb Filling

350g rhubarb
1-2 tbsp caster sugar
½ lemon juice
Vanilla extract

Frangipane Filling

110g unsalted butter
110g caster sugar
110g ground almonds
25g plain flour
2 eggs
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp almond extract
½ lemon, zest
Handful flaked almond
70g icing sugar

Preheat the oven to 190°C and grease and line a 20cm tart tin. Start with the pastry and rub the butter into the flour until you have breadcrumbs. Add a few tablespoons of cold water or enough to bring it into a smooth dough. Roll out thinly and line the tart tin. Chill for at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the rhubarb filling. Chop the rhubarb into pieces and place in a saucepan with the sugar, lemon juice and vanilla. Heat and simmer gently until broken down and ‘jammy’. Set aside
Line the pastry case with parchment and baking beans and bake blind for 15-20 minutes until lightly golden. Remove the baking bean and return to the oven for 5 more minutes or so until the base is also lightly golden.
Make the frangipane topping. Cream the butter and sugar together until fluffy. Beat in the eggs and almond extract followed by the almonds, flour, baking powder and lemon zest and mix until fully combined.
Spread the rhubarb ‘jam’ evenly over the base of the pre-cooked case and top with the frangipane almond paste and smooth evenly, covering all the rhubarb. Scatter oven the flaked almonds and bake for 30-40 minutes until cooked and golden (cover with foil if it starts to colour before it is ready)
Mix the sieved icing sugar with a few splashes of cold water until you form a thick paste. Spoon into a piping bag and, once the tart is cool, drizzle over!

Blueberry and Lemon Friands with Cinnamon Creme Anglaise

June 24, 2013 Comments Off read Sweet Treats

I’ve been wanting to make these frainds for ages! They are little ‘cakes’ that are make with egg whites and are therefore light and airy and often seen occupying the deli counters in Australia. They are a similar to financiers if you’ve ever had one but without the brown butter. In addition, I couldn’t resist making an accompanying creme anglaise with the 3 spare egg yolks!

Frainds (serve 6)

100g unsalted butter, melted
125g icing sugar
25g plain flour
85g ground almonds
3 egg whites
1 lemon, zest
65g blueberries

Preheat the oven to 200°C and grease a 6 spaced muffin tin or 6 friand moulds with plenty of butter.
Sieve the flour and icing sugar into a bowl and mix in ground almonds and lemon zest.
In another large clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until frothy but by no means are you looking for a meringue-like soft peak. Just mix by hand or with an electric beater until airy and foamy.
Fold in the dry ingredients followed by the melted butter until incorporated.
Spoon into the greased muffin mould and top with a handful of blueberries.
Bake for 15-17 minutes until cooked and firm to touch with a lovely golden crust. Leave to cool in the tins before removing and dusting with icing sugar. Serve with ice cream, a coffee or my cinnamon creme anglaise!

Creme Anglaise

6 egg yolks (3 from your friands)
65g caster sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon (optional)
500ml whole milk
1-2 vanilla pods

Whisk the egg yolks, sugar and cinnamon in a bowl.
Scrape out the seeds from the vanilla and add them and the pod to a saucepan with the milk. Heat until just about to simmer and then remove from the heat.
Whisk the yolks and then gently and slowly pour over the warm milk in a steady stream while continuing to whisk until all is added. Return the mixture to the saucepan and place on a very low heat. Stir continually with a wooden spoon to cook and thicken the custard making sure the heat stays low so it doesn’t scramble the egg.
Continue to heat until it is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon.
Strain through a sieve into a jug and serve.This could also be cooled and churned in an ice cream maker for a lovely cinnamon ice cream!