Category Vegetables and Salads

Tips for the perfect risotto…….

Call me crazy but risotto is my idea of a relaxing evening at home in the kitchen. After spending some of my gap year traveling in Tuscany undergoing self-indulgent cookery courses, it takes me floating back while mindlessly stirring a pan of creamy, moorish risotto with nothing to rush for except the giddy excitable stomachs of your blessed guests- sorry but they’ll have to wait, risotto cannot and should not be rushed. Like my ice cream, I am probably a risotto connoisseur. So many people cook risotto badly- dry, stiff overcooked and tasteless. So here are a few of my tips I’ve gathered after countless experiences that I think are essential when cooking an fantastic Italian risotto.

These apply mainly to the process of making a risotto base. Extra flavours, different wines or purees can be added during or at the end, but essentially these rules always apply for me!

  • Butter– Risotto is a regional dish from the Northern areas of Italy. As discovered on my cookery endeavours, rather pleasingly, here it is much more common to use butter in cooking than the southern use of olive oil. Therefore, always use a big knob of unsalted butter (with a little olive oil to prevent it burning) to gently soften the base vegetables (onion, celery etc). Risotto is about flavour and taste- don’t skimp on the good stuff.
  • Wine– Once your rice has toasted a bit, always add a generous glass of wine and let it bubble so that is is absorbed by the rice, before adding your stock. Always keep any leftover wine for this exact purpose as it doesn’t have to be good/fresh.
  • Stock– Always add HOT stock. This will ensure the cooking time is kept constant and the temperature of the risotto does not keep fluctuating. I keep a pan on the hob next to me with a big ladle. In addition, use a GOOD stock as essentially, this will add the bulk of the flavour so make sure its tasty.
  • Liquid– Add the stock little by little. This is important, never add it all at once as the rice will boil dry before it has a chance to cook. Keep a loose texture but don’t let it run dry, so keep an eye out. It needs constant stirring to loosen the liquid around the grains to release the starch and thicken the mixture.
  • Al dente– The whole addition process should take about 15-18 minutes so keep testing the rice. I should have a slight (and I mean slight not raw) al dente bite so that when served, you can see each grain. Overcooked and the grains merge in a starchy mess.
  • Rest– When it is ready, add cubed, chilled butter (the more the merrier) and grated parmesan (usually, except in a seafood risotto) while it is OFF the heat. Pop a lid on and just let it sit relaxingly for a few minutes.
  • Texture– risotto should be served on a flat plate or shallow soup bowl so that it can easily spread but is not watery.
  • Serve– Finally, serve at once! Like I said, risotto doesn’t wait for anyone, the longer it’s left, the more it will overcook.

Leftovers– If for some insane reason there are leftovers, don’t you dare throw them away! One of the most amazing things to do with cold risotto is to make arancini. These are balls of rice, breaded and fried and usually contain cheese. Using your cold leftovers, roll into tennis ball sized balls (a nice thing to do is stick a piece of mozzarela, goats cheese or a good melter in the centre first) and coat in flour, egg and then roll in breadcrumbs. These little beauties can now be fried in oil (or deep fried) until golden and molten in the middle.

See my Wild Mushroom and Marsala Risotto recipe.

Wild Mushroom and Marsala Risotto with thyme and mascarpone

 

An oozing, Autumnal, deep, rich, silky and moorish risotto. This can be, and I assure you- will be, eaten with nothing but a trusty fork, eyes closed with a satisfied smile on your face. As the last rays of sunshine tiptoe off back to Australia leaving behind a dark gallery of evenings and a steady chilly drizzle….not to worry, this will solve any post summer blues, I promise. Because, honestly, who doesn’t love cheesey buttery and smooth warming dinners (unless of course you don’t like mushrooms)…

Risotto is the most relaxing way to spend a evening in the kitchen, unwinding with a glass of iced white, music and some mindless stirring with a wooden spoon….bliss. [See my tips for risotto making] (Serves 4)

Risotto Base

  • 300g risotto rice
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 1 stick celery, chopped
  • Bunch thyme, leaves picked
  • 150ml Marsala wine (or white wine)
  • Vegetable stock- About 1 ½ pints
  • 1 bulb garlic
  • 50g grated Parmesan
  • 60g unsalted butter, cubed
  • 1 tsp lemon juice
  • Flat-leaf parsley to serve, chopped
  • Mascarpone, to serve
  • Salt and pepper
  • Olive oil

Mushrooms

  • 500g mixed mushrooms- I used chesnut and button, sliced
  • Handful of dried wild mushrooms, soaked in 200ml boiling water for 20 minutes
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • Handful of parsley, chopped
  • Olive oil
  • Knob of butter
  1. Preheat the oven to 220°C and roast the garlic bulb whole, drizzled with a bit of oil for 30 minutes. Soak the dried mushrooms in boiling water.
  2. Now begin with the risotto base by heating a tbsp of olive oil and a knob of butter in a large frying pan on a medium-low heat and soften the onion, celery and thyme leaves until translucent but not coloured. Seasonimage
  3. While this is softening, heat 1 tbsp of oil and a knob of butter in another frying pan and saute the raw mushrooms to release and evapourate the juices (about 8-10 minutes) and to brown them. Don’t be tempted to crowd the pan, so do this in batches if necessary. After about 10 minutes, add the garlic and the parsley and cook for a few minutes. image
  4. Reserve the mushroom soaking liquid and chop the soaked dried mushrooms and add them to the frying ones. Then set aside this mixture.
  5. Using forks, remove the (should be) softened, sweetened garlic and crush to a thick garlicky paste in a pestle and mortar with a pinch of salt.image
  6. Back to the risotto, add the rice to the softened veg and toast on a medium heat until translucent and hot to touch. Add the Marsala wine (or white wine) and simmer gently. Now add a ladle of hot stock to the mixture, and on a low heat, simmer gently until it is all absorbed. Continue adding ladles of stock, making sure it does not dry out but is also not swamped. The rice should expand as it absorbs the liquid and this process should take about 18-20 minutes. Keep adding stock until the rice is cooked, with a slight bite and the texture is oozy. Now add the garlic paste and mix in.image
  7. Now, the rice should be cooked. Stir in the reserved mushrooms.image
  8. Take the pan off the heat, add a squeeze of lemon juice, the parmesan and scatter with the cubed butter (you can add as much butter as you like, the more you add the shinier and creamier it will taste- restaurants are known to use up to 200g to get that decadent texture and taste). Cover with a lid and leave for 2 minutes off the heat. image
  9. After this time, mix gently to mix in the melted additions and add a touch of reserved mushroom stock if to thick. It should ‘ooze’ and be served in a shallow soup bowl- not dry and stiff on the plate.
  10. Serve topped with chopped parsley, a spoonful of cool, creamy mascarpone and drizzle with truffle/olive oil if you want!

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WINE: The depth and richness of this dish is robust enough to stand up to something regional from Italy. Here I’m thinking a hearty red from Valpolicella, Italy. While you could in fact use a splash in your risotto or make a devine Veronese Risotto as a replacement of the Marsala, better still enough a glass of Amarone della Valpolicella such as the 2010 Musella available at Armit Wines.

Jess - Musella

Roasted allotment salad with Balsamic Pearls

 

If you grow your own produce then maybe you can relate to this time of bountiful year on the allotment. The vegetables are literally elbowing each other with they’re knobbly roots to fight for the glorious prospect of supplying our busy kitchen. Beetroot, sugar snaps, runner beans, courgettes, potatoes and tomatoes seem to have smuggled the odd protein shake or steroid supplement and are bursting to be eaten…we can’t do it quick enough. So tonight, I went vegetarian again. A roasted salad.

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I recently found these little balsamic gems in Waitrose and just had to try them! They’re like dinky diminutive drops of balsamic caviar which burst in your mouth with ever bite! Topped over this beetroot salad……..amazing!

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  • 4 raw beetroot washed and chopped into chunks
  • 7 small carrots, whole
  • 1 tbsp cumin seeds
  • 2 whole garlic cloves
  • Small bunch of thyme, leaves picked
  • Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper
  • 150g goats cheese, crumbled
  • 2 tbsp mixed seeds, pumpkin, sunflower
  • Small bunch of chopped mint leaves
  • Balsamic vinegar
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Balsamic caviar (optional)
  1. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Mix the beetroot and whole carrots in a roasting tin and coat in the cumin seeds, thyme leaves, plenty of olive oil and seasoning. Add the whole garlic cloves.
  2. Roast, turning every so often for 45-50 minutes until the veg are soft and caramelised at the edges.
  3. Meanwhile, toast the seeds in a dry frying pan until they are fragrant and begin to pop. Chop the mint leaves.
  4. When the vegetables are ready, remove from the oven. Take the garlic cloves and squeeze the soft, sweet pulp into a pestle and mortar. Add a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar, a good glug of extra virgin olive oil and some seasoning and bash until blended into a paste. Coat the warm vegetables in this dressing.
  5. Crumble over the goats cheese, seeds and mint leaves and serve, scattered with a few teaspoons of balsamic caviar if you like!

Pea and Taleggio Fritters and a Pompous Charcuterie

So……I’ve been having withdrawals from cooking and you may have noticed the lack of recipes these past few weeks? I’ve been in London doing a time consuming internship at delicious.magazine! Its been fantastic, and between sampling over 50 Christmas pudding varieties, 30 mince pies, 15 panettones and still with a crate full of mincemeat and cake left to devour (all for the sake of the Christmas issue’s ‘taste test’ of course) it has left me with little time, stomach capacity and/or motivation for anything edible. However, these withdrawals have been kicking in so it was back in the kitchen this bank holiday weekend.

These fritters are essentially savoury pancakes I guess? I make these all the time as a delicious lunch as they are so open to using different ingredients! With an abundance of cooperative peas from the garden and a fridge maliciously hiding a legendary hunk of taleggio cheese I decided upon these tasty ingredients for lunch. I usually use feta but its absence has converted me to this pungent and obsequious cheese which melts so nicely in this recipe!

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You can pretty much use any ingredients in this batter, tweaking the amount of flour and liquid. You can add different spices and herbs and different cheeses! For example, I love to make these with fennel seeds, feta, peas and mint or sweetcorn, curry and chilli! Go mad!

  • 125ml milk
  • 2 eggs
  • 30g cornflour
  • 100g flour
  • 250g peas
  • 100g taleggio cheese, cubed (approx, or a handful)
  • salt and pepper
  • basil, chopped
  • cumin seed
  1. Boil the peas for a few minutes then run under cold water. Place half the peas in a food processor and puree.
  2. Sieve the flours into a large bowl and add some salt, pepper, cumin seed and basil. Whisk in the beaten eggs and milk until smooth.
  3. Fold in the whole peas, pureed peas, and cheese and mix well. It should be fairly thick, enough to hold its shape in a pan
  4. Heat a frying pan to a medium heat and warm some sunflower oil
  5. Fry spoonfuls of the mixture in the hot oil for a few minutes on each side, until golden brown and set.

These are lovely with a salsa, salad, chutney or anything you fancy depending on the flavours! However, we had some fancy lamb prosciutto and boar ham and some deeply decadent and artery clogging cheeses in the fridge to use up so these went down well too…..

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Roasted Carrot and Avocado Salad

Today the sun made a rare and facetious appearance in this so-called summer season we seem to be laden with this year. So naturally as Brits, we grabbed the opportunity to have a barbie. My most inspiring idol in the food industry, Jamie Oliver, has been the backbone of my passion for food and cooking ever since receiving a copy of Jamie at Home when I was a teenager. The titled spine of this book, after many years of use, is holding tightly (but dare I say unsuccessfully) to the binding of the splattered cover and greasy pages. This book is a staple in my assembly of cookbooks and always makes an appearance especially in the summer sunshine. This tasty and delicious little salad is therefore courtesy of my mate Jamie (I wish) which went down guilt free with our charred meat and roasted beets and goats cheese.

  • 500g small carrots (mixed varieties if available)
  • 2 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tsp crushed dried chillies
  • salt and pepper
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 4 thyme sprigs, leave picked
  • Red wine vinegar
  • 1 orange, halved
  • 1 lemon, halved
  • 2 ripe avocados
  • 4 x 1cm thick ciabatta/sourdough slices, toasted
  • 2 handfuls of mixed salad leaves
  • 1 punnet cress
  • 4 tbsp mixed seeds
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Parboil the carrots whole, in salted water for about 10 minutes. Drain and place into a deep roasting tin
  2. While the carrots are boiling, grind the cumin seeds, chillies and salt and pepper in a pestle and mortar. Add the garlic and thyme and smash to a paste. Add a swig of oil and a splash of red wine vinegar.
  3. While the carrots are still warm in the tin, cover with the this paste. Place the halved orange and lemon cut side down in the tin and roast the carrots for 30 minutes.
  4. While the carrots are roasting, toast the bread slices. Tear into pieces and add to the sliced avocados on a serving plate. Add the salad leaves and cress and toss.
  5. When the carrots are ready, remove from the oven and, using tongs, squeeze the juice from the lemon and orange into a jug and add an equal amount of oil and a swig of red wine vinegar and season.
  6. Add the carrots (along with the spices and marinade left in the roasting pan) to the bread and salad mix. Drizzle with the lemony dressing and scatter with toasted seeds. Serve!image

Sweet Potato and Goats Cheese Tartlet

 

I’m not turning vegetarian- honest! Not that there’s anything wrong with being vegetarian…..I even know a few (wink wink) and meat does not rule my dinner table. However, life without meat is a little…..well….inconvenient as many of my staple bible recipes contain meat which provides that much needed flavour and protein. I know however, that many vegetarian dishes can be just as punchy, satisfying and tasty especially if you have ever read the Ottolenghi cookbook which is a must have for any passionate herbivore. This little tartlet is a tasty example of a vegetarian alternative for those days when you just fancy something simple. Its also great for those cheeky veges at your dinner parties……they’re probably fed up of quiche by now….

(Serves 4)

  • 250g puff pastry
  • 1 egg
  • 4tbsp cream cheese
  • 2 small sweet potatoes
  • 1 tbsp cumin seeds
  • 100g soft goats cheese
  • Caramelized balsamic red onions (see red onion recipe)
  • 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds
  • Flat leaf parsley, chopped
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  1. Preheat the oven to 200°C . Peeled and chop the sweet potatoes into cubes about 2cm. Place in a roasting tin and season with salt and pepper and scatter with the cumin seeds. Drizzle generously with olive oil and roast for 30 minutes until soft.
  2. Roll the pastry out to about 3 mm thick and cut into 4 rectangles about 15cmx7cm and place on a lined baking tray. Using a sharp knife, score a border about 1cm in from the edge, making sure you don’t cut all the way through. Brush with beaten egg.
  3. Spread the base of each pastry rectangle with the cream cheese. Top with the sweet potato cubes, crumbled goats cheese and pumpkin seeds.
  4. Place in the oven for 15-18 minutes until golden.
  5. After this time, top with the red onions and return to the oven for a further 2 minutes until the pastry is golden and puffed.
  6. Remove from the oven and scatter with the chopped parsley and drizzle with olive oil.
  7. I served mine with a watercress, chive and sugar snap salad. Enjoy and think of the poor pig or cow you spared!image

Caramelized Balsamic Red Onions

These are yummy and I always have some in a jar in the fridge. They are great to top salads, pizza’s, tarts and quiches.

  • 5 red onions, halved and sliced thinly
  • 100ml balsamic vinegar
  • 60g caster sugar
  • salt and pepper
  • 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  1. Slice the onions and place in a deep roasting tin
  2. Add the sugar, oil and vinegar and season. Stir to combine.
  3. Place in a 180°C preheated oven and roast for 30 minutes, tossing every so often.
  4. After 30 minutes, take out the oven and leave to cool. Store in a sterilized jar and keep in the fridge. They will become sticky and sweet once cooled.

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