Cauliflower Cheese Soup With Sage and Chestnuts

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Time for another comforting winter soup. I love cauliflower cheese so this soup was sure to please. As chestnuts were also in season and getting ready to be roasted on a humble fire, I thought I’d save them the pain. As they were screaming naughtily at me to eat them, I topped my soup with their creamy, crumbled texture and some crispy sage leaves for some delicate crunch.

  • 1 large cauliflower, cut into florets
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • Large knob of butter
  • 1 garlic clove sliced
  • small bunch of sage leaves, picked
  • 700ml hot stock
  • Salt and pepper
  • 100g or so of strong mature cheddar cheese, grated
  • Sage leaves to fry
  • Olive oil
  • Chestnuts
  1. Begin by getting the chestnuts on to boil. Pop them straight in, they should take about 15 minutes to soften. After this, drain and allow to cool. You can score the top with a cross to make them easier to peel if you like. Once soft, drain and set aside to cool.
  2. Melt the butter with a splash of oil in a pan. Once hot, soften the onion for about 5 minutes until translucent. Add the sage leaves and the garlic and fry for a couple of minutes.
  3. Add the cauliflower florets and stir to coat in the onion. Season.
  4. Add the hot stock and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 10 minutes until the cauliflower is really soft when pierced with a knife.
  5. Remove from the heat and blend with a hand blender.
  6. Add a spoonful of creme fraiche or replace some of the stock for milk for a creamier texture if you like. Add the cheese.
  7. Replace back on the heat on low and stir until the cheese had melted. Season to taste
  8. Now heat a thin layer of oil in a frying pan until really hot. Lightly fry the sage leaves until crispy and drain on kitchen paper. Season with a scatter of salt. This oil can now be kept and used as ‘sage-scented oil’ to top your soup or for other recipes and dressings.
  9. Serve the soup topped with crumbled chestnuts, crispy sage leaves and a drizzle of the fragrant oil!

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Gingerbread and Apple Pancakes

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The perfect start to a sunny Autumnal Sunday morning. I saw a version of these recently on a cookery show, however I always like to get some fruit into my breakfast in some way so I added some grated apple for texture and nourishment!

Pillowy, light and spongy pancakes are always satisfying. I haven’t got a huge sweet tooth so I appreciate homemade pancakes that haven’t been drowned in maple syrup or criminally, bacon…..! I had mine simply with Greek yoghurt and a spoonful of my pumpkin butter jam for sweetness. Drizzled with some sticky honey (the pancakes not me), I was ready to start the day……

  • 225g self raising flour
  • 3 tbsp light muscovado sugar
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 2 tsp ground ginger
  • 1 tsp mixed spice
  • pinch salt
  • ½ lemon, grated zest
  • ½ vanilla pod, seeds. Or a few drops of vanilla extract
  • 300ml milk
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 apple, grated and drained in a colander
  1. Place the dry ingredients in a large bowl and make a well in the centre.
  2. Add the lemon, vanilla and then whisk in the milk.
  3. Whisk in the egg and then add the apple. My apple was quite moist so it made the mixture a little thinner so I suggest draining the apple in a colander first or patting dry. I just added a little more flour and it still worked out fine!image
  4. Pour a little oil in a hot frying pan and fry large spoonfuls of the mixture for a few minutes until it begins to turn golden brown underneath and bubbles appear on top before flipping and frying for a few more minutes.
  5. Serve warm with yoghurt and honey or any other favourite accompianment!

These are also open to experimentation! Add any flouring, spice or fruit but be aware that wet fruit will add a lot of moisture. Try it with my pumpkin butter jamimage

Pumpkin, Pancetta and Sage Risotto with a poached egg

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This seasons allotment pumpkin harvest certainly and surprisingly earnt its keep this year which is my excuse for the popular pumpkin theme these last few weeks. As ten chubby, overfed pumpkins sat apprehensively on the wall outside my backdoor, I had originally thought them unsuitable for eating, I had already devised a family tree of characters to make my own set of halloween faces! However, as I cut into their dense, creamy flesh, I realised they were much too good to waste.

So I knocked up a vat of oozing, cheesey, creamy and vibrantly orange halloween-themed risotto. Topped with a poached egg, or as pictured, a cool quinelle of mascarpone, it went down a treat. I roasted my pumpkin to get the most from its flavours with a little added crushed coriander seed to give you a crackle of surprise in every other mouthful.

Serves 4

  • 1 small pumpkin/butternut squash
  • 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed in a pestle and mortar
  • 3 garlic cloves, left in their skins
  • Olive oil
  • 200g risotto rice
  • Hot chicken or vegetable stock (about 1 pint)
  • 1 glass dry white wine
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • Few sprigs thyme
  • 25g butter
  • Parmesan, grated
  • Handful of sage leaves
  • 150g pancetta or smoked bacon
  • 1 egg/Mascarpone to serve
  1. Preheat the oven to 190°C. Cut the pumpkin in halve and scoop out the seeds and reserve (you can fry these in oil). Cut into small quarters or large chunks and drizzle with oil, scatter with salt and pepper and the coriander seeds. I chucked in a few garlic cloves in their skins here too, as I never miss this opportunity as they go all sweet and sticky.
  2. Roast for about 40-50 minutes until the flesh is soft and scoopable. Use a spoon to scoop the flesh out into a food processor or a large bowl and throw the skins away. Squeeze the sugary garlic from their skins and add to the pumpkin. Mash in a processor with a splash of hot stock to loosen or with a masher in a bowl. Set aside to keep warm.image
  3. Meanwhile or afterwards, begin the risotto base. Melt the butter with a splash of oil in a large pan over a medium low heat. Soften the onion until translucent and then add the thyme leaves and season.
  4. Add the rice and stir until beginning to turn translucent and it is hot to touch. Add the wine and simmer until absorbed.
  5. Now turn the heat down so that it gently simmers and add ladlefuls of your hot stock to the rice, adding another once each had been absorbed. Don’t let it dry out however. (For tips on the perfect risotto see here) The whole process should take about 15-18 minutes with continual stirring.
  6. Meanwhile, heat a hot frying pan and cook the pancetta or bacon until crisp. Add the sage leaves at the end for a minute until crisp then set aside.
  7. After about 15 minutes, test the risotto. The rice should be nearly done or a little al dente.
  8. Now stir in most of the pumpkin puree. It will thicken considerably so add more stock to get a oozy, loose and molten texture.
  9. Stir in the pancetta and sage and season to taste.
  10. Once the consistency is loose enough and the rice is cooked, take off the heat. Add the parmesan and a squeeze of lemon and cover with a lid and let it sit for a minute or so to rest. Then stir together when the cheese has melted.
  11. Spoon into shallow bowls and top with extra sage, and if wanted, a spoonful of creamy mascarpone or a ‘runny-in-the-middle’ poached egg!

This recipe is also lovely with walnuts or chestnuts for added crunchy texture!

Mission Burrito

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One evening last week, I went to a burrito masterclass at ‘Mission Burrito’, Park Street, Bristol. One of five from a small chain of authentic, delicious, moreish and comforting burritos bars. It was brilliant.

I’ve been in burrito eating territory but this was a new and exciting delight. A whistle-stop guide through owner Jan’s motivation to recreate the tastes from his time in San Francisco and the origins of the business were our first look into their love affair with burritos. No sooner, tupperwares of intriguing chipotle, arbol, epazote and pumpkin seed powders imported religiously from Mexico, were wafted under our noses, eliciting stomach tingling excitement and awe. With not a freezer to be found in any of their kitchens, Mission Burrito focuses wholeheartedly on freshly made burritos everyday from scratch using amazing ingredients.

With Corona in hand, and sticky tortilla chip fingers, we knocked up the largest batch of guacamole I’ve ever seen. Then it was ready for the big show. Jan’s expertise and wonderful passion was effectiously contagious as he casually invited us all to dive behind the counter to marry together our own personalised burrito ingredients into a warm, toasted floury tortilla. With a mouthwateringly fresh array of delectable ingredients from black beans, white beans, rice, shredded pork or chicken, peppers, salad, guacamole, soured cream and a dangerous vat of spicy sauces that would make a grown Mexican weep, we were spoilt for choice. We made our burrito’s in the traditional style, to the amusement of the Mexican staff who casually knocked out double our turnover for the loyal but slightly bewildered customers who lined the room!

Jan’s expert method:

It all begins with a warmed floury tortilla. Next rice…..followed by a good spoonful of creamy beans. Then the shredded pork, salad and in my case, guacamole, soured cream and salad (hold the spice for me)! Mix it together and then craftily and technically fold into a chunky, easily transportable roll of goodness.

Throughout the evening it was apparent of the love that Jan had for good fresh food and for making people happy with it. For many, this is considered fast food, and it is, but not in the way you know it. This is all about freshness and real ingredients which although combined in a speedy ‘subway-style’ manner, you sure won’t taint your precious nostrils with the synthetic wafts of that traditional sandwich bar. So with the lasting take home message that was pinned behind the counter- the difference between a fajitas and a burrito is that a fajitas is filled with grilled meats and vegetables- we said our reluctant farewells and set out to work off our amazing burritos before beginning round two for lunch!

Lapsang Souchong Smoked Salmon

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I attempted to smoke my own fish at home and it was a surprising success! You’ll  need a 1940’s gas mask or failing that, an efficient extractor fan- I chose the later- as your kitchen soon gets a little smokey. The taste is worth the trouble though, as it infused this beautiful salmon with a subtle smoky fragrance and a moist, pillowy texture! Following Skye Gyngell’s instructions with a few tweaks here and there, this is how to go about your home smoking…..

  • 45g muscovado sugar
  • 60g caster sugar
  • 135g tea leaves- I used Lapsang souchong which has a bonfire-like smoky taste.
  • Salmon filltets
  1. Using foil, make 2 cups about 3cm deep and divide the above combined dry mixture into both
  2. Place in a deep roasting tin. Place ramekins or pudding moulds in the four corners and rest a wire rack on top of them, covering the foil cups
  3. Place the salmon fillets skin side up on some parchment and wrap and place on top of the wire rack. Place the tin on a medium-high heat and begin to heat. It takes about 10 minutes to begin smoking- extractor fans are essential here.
  4. For salmon, my timings were a bit hit and miss. I smoked it for about 5 minutes and then checked. Then leave to rest for for a few minute still wrapped but off the heat.

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To let the salmon be the star of the show, I served mine simply with creamy lentils with lots of fresh chopped herbs. The only down fall to this is you don’t get the crispy skin I so love on fish. People find this is strange but it is essentially just like pork crackling! So, you can peal the skin off the salmon and fry in a hot oiled pan for a few minutes and serve as a salty shard on top for added texture and crunch!

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Cornbread Fritters with Soured Cream and Guacamole

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These little cornbread inspired fritters/pancakes were made with the leftover pulp from the sweetcorn soup I made. I hate waste and this way, the delicious wholesome leftovers were put to good use. You could alternatively use tinned corn which you can blend, the texture may be slightly different so just add more flour/milk to adjust for a drier/wetter batter. The polenta adds a crispy texture, the cheese melts everywhere and the chilli provides that familiar cornbread kick.

  • 300g leftover pureed corn from your Creamy Sweetcorn Soup– see recipe (or tinned sweetcorn, pureed)
  • 3 spring onions, finely chopped including green tops
  • ½ large red chilli, finely chopped
  • 40g grated mature cheddar cheese
  • 40g plain flour
  • 40g polenta/cornmeal
  • ½ tsp baking powder
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  1. In a large bowl, combine the pureed corn, spring onions, chilli, cheese and season.image
  2. Whisk in the eggs and then stir in the flour, baking powder and polenta until you have a thick batter. If the batter is too runny add a little more flour. It should be fairly thick but will set once cooked.image
  3. Heat a thin layer of sunflower oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry spoonfuls of the mixture for 1-2 minutes each side or until golden and crusty from the polenta. The mixture can be a little wet but adding too much flour I’ve found makes them taste a bit ‘floury’ whereas here they will taste solely of sweetcorn.image
  4. Drain on kitchen paper and leave to cool slightly before serving warm with soured cream and guacamole!

Creamiest Sweetcorn Soup with Truffle Oil

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I’d never had sweetcorn soup until this beauty, made with 4 large rusks that were bordering edible, cluttering up my fridge. However, it was the creamiest, silky soup I’ve ever made.

I’m never one to sieve anything, especially soups as I think much of the nutrients and goodness are in the skins or roughage and it seems such as waste to chuck the pulp away! However………however…….the sieved version is like eating a shining billowy parachute of silk and is devine. Plus for the waste conscious like myself, the leftover pulp/pureed corn I used economically and deliciously in some amazing cornbread fritters to serve alongside or the next day.

Serves 2 – Sieved, elegant and smooth

Serves 4 – Chunky, rustic and wholesome

  • 4 corn cobs, kernels removed (about 400g)
  • 1.1 litre vegetable stock
  • 50ml double cream
  • 30g butter
  • 1 tsp olive oil
  • 1 small leek, chopped finely
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Truffle oil, to serve
  • Chives, to serve
  1. Begin by heating the butter and oil in a pan. Add the leek and garlic and soften over a medium-low heat until translucent.
  2. Remove the kernels from the corn by standing the cobs on end and use a sharp knife to score them off. Add the bay leaf to the pan and the corn. Cook for about 4 minutes.
  3. Add the hot stock and season. Simmer for 20 minutes.
  4. After this time, remove from the heat and puree with a hand blender or in a food processor.
  5. Add the cream and check the seasoning.
  6. Now if your plan to sieve it, just strain through a fine mesh sieve and retain the silky soup. Use a spoon to get as much of the moisture and starch from the puree as you can. Retain the pulp for some cornbread fritters.
  7. Heat the strained soup and garnish with chives and a drizzle of truffle oil if you like.

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Rose and Raspberry Polenta Loaf

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This moist little loaf is so pretty, I stood hovering with a knife for longer than is healthy before plunging in. Made with deliciously tasty almonds, a splash of rose (optional) and the last of this years frozen raspberry harvest, it succeeded in filling the cake tin…….temporarily. I never used to like rosewater’s soapy flavouring but I’ve grown to appreciate it if used subtly. Feel free to leave it out, or add only a few drops but it is lovely with the crunchy contrast of the lemon and pistachio sugar icing slavered obligingly on top like spilt paint.

  • 200g butter
  • 200g caster sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 100g ground almonds
  • 100g flaked almonds
  • 100g polenta
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 10ml or less rosewater
  • 150g frozen raspberries

Icing and Pistachio Sugar

  • Icing sugar
  • Lemon juice
  • Handful of pistachios
  • Granulated sugar
  1. Preheat the oven to 170°C  and line a loaf, cake or baking tin of choice, with baking parchment.
  2. Begin by blitzing the flaked almonds in a food processor until ground. Alternatively you can just use 200g ground almonds to start with but this gives a bit more texture as you can leave them a bit chunkier than the ground packets.
  3. Cream the butter and sugar together until fluffy.
  4. Add the beaten egg bit by bit, mixing in thoroughly after each addition. If it begins to curdle, add a handful of almonds but don’t worry too much.
  5. Add the rest of the almonds, polenta and baking powder and mix well.
  6. Add the rose water if using and the frozen raspberries (coated in a little flour to prevent them sinking)
  7. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 45-60 minutes, depending on the thickness of your mixture in the tin. Check it after 30 minutes. It should be golden and spring back to the touch.
  8. Meanwhile sieve a handful of icing sugar into a clean bowl and add a teaspoon of lemon juice at a time until you get the desired consistency. I wanted a thick icing sugar but still with a good dripping texture.
  9. To make the pistachio sugar, grind a handful of pistachio nuts in a pestle and mortar or crush in a bag with the back of a spoon until coarse.
  10. Then add about 1 tbsp of granulated sugar and grind with the pistachios.
  11. When the cake is ready, leave to cool before icing and scattering with the pistachio sugar. This can also be decorated with rose petals or pomegranate seeds too if you’re feeling very girly.

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This cake is delicious served with clotted cream, creme fraiche, a glass of bubbly or alone with only a fresh peppermint tea for company.

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Liquorice Creams with Sea Salt

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Last night I experimented on my family and poor guest. After my insightful internship at ‘delicious’ food magazine this summer, I was carted away with pantry filling samples of new, free and excitingly original products, sent ambitiously to the editorial team. In this treasure trove of goodies was a small pot of liquorice powder….yes you heard correctly! I like liquorice but what was I supposed to do with this? My first thoughts turned to ice cream (naturally, if you know me well).

However, this week I was watching Nigella strut her gastronomic stuff on TV and there it was…….liquorice pudding! Now,a heads up, these are not like Marmite in their ‘love it or hate it’ sense, but they certainly hold a similar gauntlet. After knocking up this creamy mixture in a matter of minutes, I chilled them in the fridge ready to devour after diner. However………however…

As I announced that ‘tonight you are my guinea pigs’ to my guests, I sampled a thimbleful of this deceiving mixture and declared that I was sorry but they were too horrendous to serve. But to the cries of my guests that they at least try them anyway, I served them up. And, after each smooth mouthful, they became better and better and better until our glasses were empty and we sat amazed at how delightful they were! I’m still surprised! So don’t blame me if you hate them but after a few mouthfuls, I hope you’ll see…. If not, stick to chocolate mousse.

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This is the powder. Yes it looks like dirt, and just tipping it into this bowl set me off on a marathon worthy sneezing fit but if you love liquorice, this is like gold dust. I used 2 tsp of powder per 300ml of double cream, whereas Nigella used equivalent quantities of liquorice pellets. I think it could do with slightly less powder as they were fairly strong, however, it still works so do as you like.

  • 120ml water
  • 1 ½ – 2 tsp liquorice powder OR 2 tsp liquorice pellets
  • 4 tbsp light muscovado sugar (it is not a sweet dessert so add more if you like)
  • 350ml double cream (I used 300ml and it was fine)
  • 4 tsp cornflour
  • 2 tbsp milk
  1. Combine the liquorice and water in a saucepan and heat until dissolved. Bring to the simmer.
  2. Whisk in the sugar and cream and bring back to the simmer and then remove from the heat.
  3. Mix the cornflour and milk in a little bowl to a smooth paste.
  4. Place the pan on a low heat and whisking all the time, pour in the cornflour paste and whisk until thickened for a minute or so.
  5. Divide it between 4 glasses or serving ramekins. They can be eaten warm which I didn’t try but maybe this is nicer!?
  6. If not, cover with cling film or baking paper that has been soaked in water and rung out, to prevent a skin forming on the top and place in the fridge for about 2 hours.
  7. Eat at room temperature, sprinkled with some sea salt if you like!

Nigella says, I quote- ‘For those of us who love liquorice, this pudding is sheer, spine-tingling joy’! Hmmmm…..persevere!

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Banana Muffins with a Boozy Rum Icing

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In honour of ‘The Great British Bake Off’, my friends and I decided to bake a wholesome feast to devour during the entertainment that was John, James and…..Brendan? Suffocating in the smells of freshly baked goods in my Clifton garden flat, I knocked out a batch of these forever pleasing muffins and added a cheeky little extra topping. I used to make these every weekend when I ran my own breakfast menu at ’The Food Gallery’ (Marlborough) over the summer. They proudly topped my menu (minus the rum icing) served with creamy Greek yoghurt and some sweet, sticky local honey so I confirm, they certainly make a delicious start to the day too! However, tonight called for a little added sparkle so I decorated with some rum cream cheese frosting and walnut praline……

TIP: If you ever have too many bananas turning brown and sugary in your fruit bowl- don’t throw them away! I always peal mine and freeze them in a sandwich bag. Then they are ready to hand and at the perfect ripeness for when baking calls. Bring them out to defrost a little before you use them- they may go all slimy and unappetising looking but I assure you they will taste and bake perfectly!

Makes 10-12 rugby player sized muffins (adapted from Waitrose recipes)

  • 125g unsalted butter, softened
  • 225g light brown muscavado sugar
  • 4 very ripe bananas (300g)
  • 2 free-range eggs
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • Large pinch cinnamon/mixed spice
  • 250g plain flour
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
  • 75ml buttermilk
  • 50g crumbled toasted walnuts or pecans

Rum Icing

  • 300g cream cheese
  • 150g icing sugar, sieved
  • A pinch of cinnamon/mixed spice
  • A splash of rum
  1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a muffin tin with cases.
  2. Cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl.
  3. Add the mashed bananas, vanilla and eggs and mix
  4. Fold in the flour, spices, bicarbonate of soda and baking powder.
  5. Now add the buttermilk and stir thoroughly. Add the walnuts and mix until they are evenly distributed.
  6. Generously fill the muffin cases and bake in the oven for about 25 minutes, checking after about 20 to make sure they are not browning too much.
  7. Meanwhile, make the icing. Cream the cream cheese, spices and sieved icing sugar together. Add a splash of rum and mix. Chill in the fridge to harden until needed.
  8. When the muffins are ready, they will be soft and springy to the touch and a sharp knife inserted into the centre will come out clean. Leave to cool completely.
  9. Once cool, top with icing and decorate with a halved walnut and some walnut praline if you like. The praline I made by melting caster sugar in a dry frying pan until melted and beginning to turn golden. Once it is a pale light colour, remove from the heat and pour quickly and thinly over crumbled walnuts on some baking paper and leave to cool and crisp. Break into shards and top the muffins!

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